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Textured Hair

82% of US Black women identify their natural hair texture as 3A to 4C

Curly, coily, wavy, kinky, – these words are all used to describe textured hair. However, there is still much confusion among beauty companies about what textured hair is, and what these terms specifically refer to.

There are many different types of textured hair. Textures are determined by the shape of the hair follicles which vary by genetic makeup. The hair shaft – the part of the hair that can be seen above the scalp – creates shape and dimension either by twisting into loose or tight curls, wrapping into “S-shape” spring-like coils, or kinking into a “Z-shape”.

SCIENCE
CHALLENGES
INNOVATION

A microscopic closeup view of strands of textured hair rooted in skin on a scalp on a dark background A microscopic closeup view of strands of textured hair rooted in skin on a scalp. / 123rf Image #30478163

The science behind textured hair

All hair twists as it grows, and the shape of the hair follicle as well as the way hair proteins, or keratin, are clustered in the hair shaft determine how different hair types develop. The more twists hair strands have, the curlier the hair is.

Textured hair, due to its intrinsic curl pattern, slows the speed in which the sebum can travel down to reach the ends of the hair, resulting in drier hair. Its high ellipticity, curliness and structural delicacy make textured hair challenging to both nourish and treat.

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Textured hair challenges

While about 60% of the world’s population have textured hair, only a small part of the products on the shelf space today addresses the need of this consumer group, highlighting a large gap in the personal care market, and shedding light on larger societal issues.

There are three important issues that each affect one’s hair care experiences:

Time: The time needed to style textured hair can take up to several hours making it difficult to dedicate the time to this process. 36% of Black women with natural hair say they wish they could wear a “wash-and-go” hairstyle.
Cost: Styling textured hair requires specific expertise from those who know how to treat and care for this hair type and consumers often must pay significantly more to access this expertise. Black consumers spend nearly nine times more than non-Black consumers on hair and beauty products.
Culture: Throughout history, hair has been a form of artistic expression, a symbol of beauty, power, individuality, strength, and identity. For Black women specifically, hair has been an integral part of culture, yet it has often been policed by employers, schools, and society in general. To meet societal standards and expectations, many Black women attempt to change their natural hair texture by using dangerous chemicals and high heat, which could damage their hair.

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Collaborations advancing textured hair care

By understanding the chemical, physical and mechanical properties of textured hair and developing tools that are especially tailored to manage this hair type, hair care suppliers and brands can effectively provide the solutions needed for this niche market.

We listened as the Global African Affinity Network (GAAN) emphasized barriers faced by consumers in the textured hair care industry and helped us connect this market gap with the broader societal issues faced. GAAN highlighted the need to develop improved products to address key performance factors such as moisture, frizz control, and shine. This dialogue inspired our strategy as we investigated the best approach to address these unmet needs. What an amazing example of how inclusion may drive innovation and growth!

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Complete Textured Hair Kit

Focused to help deliver formulations with proven results. The combination of the right partners, collaborators and expertise will allow us to address the toughest beauty challenges in society.

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Global African Affinity Network (GAAN)

Committed to using our materials science expertise, chemistry and employee resources to bring solutions to the textured hair care market.

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Expanding expertise in textured hair care

Dow is working with THE MOST, a start-up company that specializes in textured hair care solutions owned and led by Dawn Myers, an African American female entrepreneur. Through this collaboration, THE MOST will have access to Dow’s materials science expertise and Dow will expand its understanding of textured hair care to develop ingredients that address the needs of this underserved market. Learn more about the collaboration here.